Main domestic battery bank
When the PS W7 is in inverter mode the “through the box ” earth line is automatically disconnected from the input earth and joined to the output neatral , complying with the natural earth inverter requirements， if you wish to maintain a though earth simply connect the input earth to the output earth.
What cable to use in mm2：
A charger or inverter Cable run distance 0-1.5m Cable run distance 1.5-4.0m
125-180A 50mm 70 mm2
180-330A 70mm 90 mm2
Please note that if there is a problem obtaining for example 90 mm2, use 2*50 mm2, or 3*35 mm2. One cable is always best but, cable is simply copper and all your require is the copper, so it does not matter if it is one cable or 10 cables as long as the square area adds up.
Performance of any product can be improved by thicker cable and shorter runs, so if in doubt round up and keep the length as short as possible.
Remove cover plate
1) Ensure that the inverter has the correct DC voltage for your boat or vehicle system. Ie 12v or 24v.
2) Fit as close to the batteries as possible. The shorter the DC cables the better. Voltage drop on long cables will effect the unit’s perfarmance.
3）. Do not reverse the cables! Connect the red cable to the positive terminal and the black cable to the negative terminal of the battery. In the event of reverse polarity the unit could be totally destroyed.
4）.Always use the solar inverter in an environment which is well ventilated, not exposed to direct sunlight or a heat source, away from water, moisture, oil or grease, away from any highly inflammable sustance, out of reach from children.
5）.The output voltage of this unit must never be on your AC system at the same time as any other AC source such as the 230V external mains line or a generator. All external power must go through the PSW7.
6）.Always switch on the PSW7 first, before plugging in any appliance.
7).Under new electrical legistion only professional electrictions should install this product.
Ensure the fitting instructions are fully understood before fitting this product.
Installation
1). Position the unit as close to the main battery bank as possible.
2). Position in a cool, dry &well ventilated space.
3).Orientation of the unit is not critical.
4）. Either purchase the standard cable set from Dealer which is about 1.5 meters, or if using your own cable, use the cable size chart provided on the installation drawing to ensure you have thick enough cable for the DC leads. In the event of not being able to get the size requested (it can be hard to get thick cable ) then simply add multiple length of thinner cable, i.e. if you can not get 90 mm2 cable then use 3*35mm2 cable, at the end of the day its just copper we need.
.Fit a fuse suitable for the job, again look at the installation drawing, we have a full range of high current fuses in the GANLR range of gold fuse products, ranging from 100-500Amps. On the DC side.
. Connect the cables from the batteries to the fuse then to the unit, this way if there is a fault at the unit the fuse is already in place and this will be safe. In the event of a isolation switch being used, please ensure the rating of the switch can handle the power of the unit.
7）.Ensure the unit is switched off during istallation.
8).On the AC side ensure the shore power (all external AC sources) are totally disconnected, connect the output from the inverter to suitable Residual Current Breaker (RCD for each protection) and current over load trips. Fuse the AC input side depending on through power requirements, the max through power is 30Amps, so fuse at 40A (allowing also for charger consumption) if you intend to use the full through power for standard 13-16Amps throughput then a 20A fuse would be a appropriate.
9）.We recommend Multi core trirated AC cable, if used on a boat or vehicle, as this is much safer where vibration is likely. Only use single solid household AC cable if the product is being used as a power source for a house or platform free of vibration.
10）.Before attempting to switch on the unit,please ensure you have selected the correct battery type on the small battery type selector switching on the front of the main box, rotate the switch to your battery type. The progressive charge control software will automatically adjust for battery bank size and state.
Charge Stage Transition Definitions
Boost CC Stage: If AC input is applied, the charger will run at full current in CC mode until the charger reaches the boost voltage.
Software timer will measure the time from AC start until the battery charger reaches 0.3V below the boost voltage, then take this time as T0 and T0 *10=T1
Software CT Stage: Start a T1 timer; the charge will keep the boost voltage in Boost CV mode until the T1 timer has run out. Then drop the voltage down to the float voltage. The timer has a minimum time of 1 hour and a maximam time of 12 hours.
Float stage: In float mode, the voltage will stay at the float voltage.
If the AC is reconnected or the battery voltage drop below 12VDC/24VDC, the charger will reset the cycle above.
If the charge maintains the float state for 10 days, the charger will reset the cycle.
The battery type and charge voltage recommendations are set out above for 25V unit x the above by 2. Some battery types may look confusing such as GEL USA and GEL EURO. If you find this confusion then join the club, we have had the different voltage curves supplies to us by different companies form the USA and Europe for what we seem the same product, however it’s not our call, we simply suply the options, if in doubt call our battery supplier and ask which charge voltage they want yo to use for their battery type, and select the closest to it. If totally confused then use the lower voltage setting until you have a higher voltage setting confirmed to you by whoever supplied the batteries to you.
The de-sulphation cycle on switch position 8 is marked in red because this is a very dangerous setting if you do not know what you are doing. Before even attempting to use this cycle you must clearly understand what it does and when and how you would use it.
What causes sulphation? This can be occur with infrequent use of the batteries, or if the batteries have been left discharged so low that they will not accept a charge. This cycle is a very high voltage charge cycle designed to try to break down the sulphate “crust” that is preventing the plates taking a charge and thus allow the plates to clean up and so accept charge once again.
How to use this function(only suitable for open lead acid batteries)
1). Ensure the battery bank is totally isolated from anything else on the boat or vehicle; the high voltage applied by this setting could destroyed all your electronics and other electrical equipment still connected (hence all these instructions are in red, this is a very expensive mistake)
Make sure the battery compartment is very well ventilated and battery caps are removed.
Switch the battery type selector switch to the correct position, then switch the AC power on.
Because this is a such a dangerous setting there is a 4 hr time out period build into the software, however on a very large battery bank this may not be enough and the unit may need to be switched off and on again to do another cycle.
What to expect on this cycle.
I would recommend your monitor the voltage of the sulphated battery bank. When you switch on the cycle the voltage should shoot up to the full 15.5volts very fast (within minutes) this is because the batteries cannot accept the charge (assuming they are sulphated) however , over a period of 1-2 hrs the voltage should start to drop（as the plates start to clean and the batteries start to take a charge）the voltage could drop away down to about 12.5 volts then start to rise. This shows the batteries are now taking a charge and starting to fill up. In this case it would be safe to switch the unit off and select your normal charging curve and hopefully this will bring your batteries back from the dead. You may need to repeat the process a few times. Please note this is a professional guess tool, which most times helps, but its not magic, so expect the worst and hope for the best. Never leave a system unattended when on this mode. If the batteries temperature reaches above 50 deg c(ie, if the batteries are almost too hot to touch) then stop the process.
Install remote control
Isolate the unit before attempting this so there are no high voltage. The local control panel on the front of the unit can also used as a remote control, reveal the screws holding the panel onto the main box, carefully remove the panel and disconnect it from the connection socket behind the unit.
Fill the hole on the main unit using the blank replica of the remote control unit.
Using the remote cable supplied then re-connect the panel to the unit
Operation and what to expect
After the unit is installed, using the panel on the front of the unit and with the shore power (120/230VAC) still disconnected, switch the unit on. The leds will cycle through there test routine, then the unit should go into inverter mode and 120/230V should be produced on the output AC terminals (provided the batteries are over 11 volts).
If the above is ok, then connect the shore power to feed 120/230V in the PSW7, after a short while, the inverter should go off line, and feed the shore power through the inverter. Changeover is about 20 milli secs (so fast that you should not be able to notice it) and the battery charger should come on-line and go through it’s charge sequence ending, after 1-10 hrs, with float voltage.
Common Fault:
There are numerous faults which the unit can detect and transmit the fault to you by the use of l.e.d..s and alarm on the unit itself. The remote control gives a little help but the real fault finding can only take place at the unit. Please see the fault finding chart over the page for full information.
Manual of installation Charger Power Inverter
Posted by admin in News
Main domestic battery bank
When the PS W7 is in inverter mode the “through the box ” earth line is automatically disconnected from the input earth and joined to the output neatral , complying with the natural earth inverter requirements， if you wish to maintain a though earth simply connect the input earth to the output earth.
What cable to use in mm2：
A charger or inverter Cable run distance 0-1.5m Cable run distance 1.5-4.0m
125-180A 50mm 70 mm2
180-330A 70mm 90 mm2
Please note that if there is a problem obtaining for example 90 mm2, use 2*50 mm2, or 3*35 mm2. One cable is always best but, cable is simply copper and all your require is the copper, so it does not matter if it is one cable or 10 cables as long as the square area adds up.
Performance of any product can be improved by thicker cable and shorter runs, so if in doubt round up and keep the length as short as possible.
Remove cover plate
1) Ensure that the inverter has the correct DC voltage for your boat or vehicle system. Ie 12v or 24v.
2) Fit as close to the batteries as possible. The shorter the DC cables the better. Voltage drop on long cables will effect the unit’s perfarmance.
3）. Do not reverse the cables! Connect the red cable to the positive terminal and the black cable to the negative terminal of the battery. In the event of reverse polarity the unit could be totally destroyed.
4）.Always use the solar inverter in an environment which is well ventilated, not exposed to direct sunlight or a heat source, away from water, moisture, oil or grease, away from any highly inflammable sustance, out of reach from children.
5）.The output voltage of this unit must never be on your AC system at the same time as any other AC source such as the 230V external mains line or a generator. All external power must go through the PSW7.
6）.Always switch on the PSW7 first, before plugging in any appliance.
7).Under new electrical legistion only professional electrictions should install this product.
Ensure the fitting instructions are fully understood before fitting this product.
Installation
1). Position the unit as close to the main battery bank as possible.
2). Position in a cool, dry &well ventilated space.
3).Orientation of the unit is not critical.
4）. Either purchase the standard cable set from Dealer which is about 1.5 meters, or if using your own cable, use the cable size chart provided on the installation drawing to ensure you have thick enough cable for the DC leads. In the event of not being able to get the size requested (it can be hard to get thick cable ) then simply add multiple length of thinner cable, i.e. if you can not get 90 mm2 cable then use 3*35mm2 cable, at the end of the day its just copper we need.
.Fit a fuse suitable for the job, again look at the installation drawing, we have a full range of high current fuses in the GANLR range of gold fuse products, ranging from 100-500Amps. On the DC side.
. Connect the cables from the batteries to the fuse then to the unit, this way if there is a fault at the unit the fuse is already in place and this will be safe. In the event of a isolation switch being used, please ensure the rating of the switch can handle the power of the unit.
7）.Ensure the unit is switched off during istallation.
8).On the AC side ensure the shore power (all external AC sources) are totally disconnected, connect the output from the inverter to suitable Residual Current Breaker (RCD for each protection) and current over load trips. Fuse the AC input side depending on through power requirements, the max through power is 30Amps, so fuse at 40A (allowing also for charger consumption) if you intend to use the full through power for standard 13-16Amps throughput then a 20A fuse would be a appropriate.
9）.We recommend Multi core trirated AC cable, if used on a boat or vehicle, as this is much safer where vibration is likely. Only use single solid household AC cable if the product is being used as a power source for a house or platform free of vibration.
10）.Before attempting to switch on the unit,please ensure you have selected the correct battery type on the small battery type selector switching on the front of the main box, rotate the switch to your battery type. The progressive charge control software will automatically adjust for battery bank size and state.
Charge Stage Transition Definitions
Boost CC Stage: If AC input is applied, the charger will run at full current in CC mode until the charger reaches the boost voltage.
Software timer will measure the time from AC start until the battery charger reaches 0.3V below the boost voltage, then take this time as T0 and T0 *10=T1
Software CT Stage: Start a T1 timer; the charge will keep the boost voltage in Boost CV mode until the T1 timer has run out. Then drop the voltage down to the float voltage. The timer has a minimum time of 1 hour and a maximam time of 12 hours.
Float stage: In float mode, the voltage will stay at the float voltage.
If the AC is reconnected or the battery voltage drop below 12VDC/24VDC, the charger will reset the cycle above.
If the charge maintains the float state for 10 days, the charger will reset the cycle.
The battery type and charge voltage recommendations are set out above for 25V unit x the above by 2. Some battery types may look confusing such as GEL USA and GEL EURO. If you find this confusion then join the club, we have had the different voltage curves supplies to us by different companies form the USA and Europe for what we seem the same product, however it’s not our call, we simply suply the options, if in doubt call our battery supplier and ask which charge voltage they want yo to use for their battery type, and select the closest to it. If totally confused then use the lower voltage setting until you have a higher voltage setting confirmed to you by whoever supplied the batteries to you.
The de-sulphation cycle on switch position 8 is marked in red because this is a very dangerous setting if you do not know what you are doing. Before even attempting to use this cycle you must clearly understand what it does and when and how you would use it.
What causes sulphation? This can be occur with infrequent use of the batteries, or if the batteries have been left discharged so low that they will not accept a charge. This cycle is a very high voltage charge cycle designed to try to break down the sulphate “crust” that is preventing the plates taking a charge and thus allow the plates to clean up and so accept charge once again.
How to use this function(only suitable for open lead acid batteries)
1). Ensure the battery bank is totally isolated from anything else on the boat or vehicle; the high voltage applied by this setting could destroyed all your electronics and other electrical equipment still connected (hence all these instructions are in red, this is a very expensive mistake)
Make sure the battery compartment is very well ventilated and battery caps are removed.
Switch the battery type selector switch to the correct position, then switch the AC power on.
Because this is a such a dangerous setting there is a 4 hr time out period build into the software, however on a very large battery bank this may not be enough and the unit may need to be switched off and on again to do another cycle.
What to expect on this cycle.
I would recommend your monitor the voltage of the sulphated battery bank. When you switch on the cycle the voltage should shoot up to the full 15.5volts very fast (within minutes) this is because the batteries cannot accept the charge (assuming they are sulphated) however , over a period of 1-2 hrs the voltage should start to drop（as the plates start to clean and the batteries start to take a charge）the voltage could drop away down to about 12.5 volts then start to rise. This shows the batteries are now taking a charge and starting to fill up. In this case it would be safe to switch the unit off and select your normal charging curve and hopefully this will bring your batteries back from the dead. You may need to repeat the process a few times. Please note this is a professional guess tool, which most times helps, but its not magic, so expect the worst and hope for the best. Never leave a system unattended when on this mode. If the batteries temperature reaches above 50 deg c(ie, if the batteries are almost too hot to touch) then stop the process.
Install remote control
Isolate the unit before attempting this so there are no high voltage. The local control panel on the front of the unit can also used as a remote control, reveal the screws holding the panel onto the main box, carefully remove the panel and disconnect it from the connection socket behind the unit.
Fill the hole on the main unit using the blank replica of the remote control unit.
Using the remote cable supplied then re-connect the panel to the unit
Operation and what to expect
After the unit is installed, using the panel on the front of the unit and with the shore power (120/230VAC) still disconnected, switch the unit on. The leds will cycle through there test routine, then the unit should go into inverter mode and 120/230V should be produced on the output AC terminals (provided the batteries are over 11 volts).
If the above is ok, then connect the shore power to feed 120/230V in the PSW7, after a short while, the inverter should go off line, and feed the shore power through the inverter. Changeover is about 20 milli secs (so fast that you should not be able to notice it) and the battery charger should come on-line and go through it’s charge sequence ending, after 1-10 hrs, with float voltage.
Common Fault:
There are numerous faults which the unit can detect and transmit the fault to you by the use of l.e.d..s and alarm on the unit itself. The remote control gives a little help but the real fault finding can only take place at the unit. Please see the fault finding chart over the page for full information.